Pilot Shirt Fabric Information

Broadcloth (55% or 60% cotton) 3.1 oz/yd. Lightweight, thin, high thread-count fabric. The lightest shirt fabric... about 15% lighter than pinpoint or poplin. No longer used much in dress and uniform shirts.2% shrinkage (up to 1/3" collar shrinkage). Available in Eagle.

Fabric Blends and Characteristics

Most shirt fabric is woven from a blend of two distinct components; Cotton (a natural fiber) and Polyester (a synthetic fiber), each having unique characteristics.  Cotton is soft, sturdy and absorbs moisture, but cotton wrinkles, shrinks, retains moisture and takes longer to dry.  Polyester is strong, abrasion resistant, resists shrinking and stretching, resists wrinkles and does not absorb or hold moisture, but woven poly does not "breath" as well all by itself. 

Fabric blend is the mixture of cotton and polyester (as a percentage such as  60/40, 55/45 or 35/65), and results in a corresponding blend of characteristics.  Together, cotton/poly blends offer a good compromise of comfort and performance characteristics.  Note that fabric blend itself does NOT determine the thickness or appearance of a material.


Fabric Thickness and Comparison




Fabric thickness and appearance is NOT determined by the blend of a material. Rather, it is determined by the size of the yarns, the weave and the yarns per inch. 

Oxford is made with thicker yarns in a 2 x 1 basket weave. It has a more open weave and visible texture than the other fabrics.  

Pinpoint is of light or medium thickness, also of a 2 x 1 weave, but it is made with finer yarns, more tightly woven, resulting in a smoother texture than oxford. 

Poplin is similar in thickness and appearance to pinpoint but uses a 1 x 1 weave. 

Broadcloth (not offered but presented for comparison) is the thinnest, lightest traditional shirt fabric, a tight 1 x 1 weave of the thinnest yarns.


Fabrics used in the shirts we offer

(white only)
Click for larger image Oxford (60% cotton) 4.2 oz/yd.
Our most popular fabric. About 20% thicker than lightweight pinpoint or poplin.  Thicker yarns in an open, more visible "basket" weave.  Very soft feel.  Breathes very well. 
2-3% shrinkage (up to 1/2" collar shrinkage).
Available in our PilotHouse Tapered and PilotHouse Relaxed-cut
Click for larger image Pinpoint (60% cotton  3.7 oz/yd) OR (35% cotton 5.2 oz/yd)
Lightweight OR high-density, smooth, finely woven fabric.  Tighter weave than oxford.  Softer than poplin. 
2-3% shrinkage (up to 1/2" collar shrinkage).
Available in Commander  and PilotHouse Tapered
Click for larger image Poplin (35% cotton)
Light to medium weight, easy-care fabric. Commonly used in uniform shirts.  More wrinkle resistant than high-cotton fabrics. 
1-2% shrinkage (up to 1/3" collar shrinkage).
Available in Aviator and Pilot


Changes in Fabric

In recent years most North American fabric mills have gone out of business while the remaining few have limited their offerings, requiring us to re-source our fabrics numerous times.  Therefore, the fabric used in any of the shirts we sell has change over the years and may be different since your last purchase. Fabrics used will continue to change as overseas mills become the sole source of shirt fabric.

Fabric also undergoes change during use as it endures countless washing/drying/wearing cycles that alter a shirt's original look, feel and fit.  Over time, the factory finish washes out while shrinkage and stretching from laundering and use takes place.  The incremental change often goes unnoticed until it is held up next to a brand new shirt.  So, just like that faded old T-shirt or comfy broken in pair of jeans, your old pilot shirts no longer resemble new ones.

Hence, it is not uncommon to notice an appreciable difference between new shirts and older shirts.  Rather than make impractical comparisons, we ask that you simply evaluate your new shirts for appearance, fit and function BEFORE LAUNDERING.  Look them over and try them on, even if you have purchased the "same" shirt before.  If for any reason the shirts are not acceptable to you, we offer a 30 Day Return Policy on unused, unlaundered shirts.

If you are undecided on the suitability of your new shirts upon receipt, a prudent option is to commit to the purchase of a single shirt and try it out.  Our 30 day return interval provides sufficient time to test a shirt through a few launder/wear cycles and still have time to return the remainder of the shirts should they not meet your requirements.